Tour Through The Tyrol (Austria), The Engadine, And Zermatt (Switzerland).

In the evening to Zither concert ; there was some good vocal music ; over at 10 . 15 ; early hours kept here ; absolutely necessary , as the chief shops are open and business is done at G . 30 ( morning ) . In a church cl ose by I saw the mummified bodies of two saints beneath the High Altar , clad in gold and silver frippery—a gruesome sight . Left Innsbruck ; returned to Feldkerke , thence to Landeck . Here an amusing adventure happened to

me . As there was necessity for me to change , I made enquiries of one of the railway officials . I was obliged to speak German ; now as my knowledge of colloquial German is very limited , I had great difficulty in making myself understood . I succeeded at last , and then , in a torrent of words , came the directions . I was completely non-plussed . I suppose I showed my want of intelligence in my face , fcr again was the information given

The official , seeing that I did not comprehend him , thought he would overcome the difficulty by addressing me in my own language . He suddenly turned round , intimated the direction I should take with his outstretched finger , and simply said , in an impressive tone , " Bunk ! " A smile illumined his stolid countenance . Where and how he had picked up this slang word I don ' t know . I have no doubt he thought it elegant English , and quite convincing . It was so in my case ; I did not trouble him any more .

From Landeck to Buchs . thence to Sargans Landguatt , and arrived at Davos Platz . This is a great resort for invalids , who are sent here by their medical advisers to retard and in many cases to recover from their serious ailments . The air is very soft and pure . Of course , it frequently happens that cure is hopeless , and they die here in peace . Many English visitors in robust health resort here ; it forms a good centre for mountain

. There are many fine hotels , the chief being the Victoria and the Hotel Belvidere—the walks and scenery are most beautiful . A walk to Davos See ( Lake ) well repays the visit , and at Davos Dorf ( Hamlet ) is a good representative Swiss village . Left by diligence for Pontresina ( Engadine ) , a journey lasting from early morning till the evening , over a mountain

pass , slowly , yet steadily ascending by a zig-zag road till we reached the region of snow and ice . The sun shone brightly , and its rays were warm , but the air , though exhilarating , was keen and cold . We came to small Sees ( Lakes ) , saw several waterfalls descending from the heights . The ever changing aspects of the mountains were magnificent . Arrived at the highest point of the pass , we rapidly descended by the zig-zag road into a charming valley where is situated the little town of Sus . We should like

to have stayed here awhile , but it was necessary to resume our journey . We arrived at Pontresina , an important centre in the Engadine , situated amongst the Bernina range of the Alps . On Sunday , went for a walk to view the mountain scenery—visited the Morteratsch Glacier . On the following day I proceeded on foot , a very pleasant walk , through the woods to St . Moritz , visited the Bads ( Baths ) , and took up my quarters at the Victoria Hotel , fitted out in the most sumptuous style , but , as the season had only just commenced , there were but few visitors .

St . Moritz , like Davos , is a resort for invalids , but there is also a steady influx of visitors , chiefly English and Americans . The great charm of this place is its picturesque situation , its pure , invigorating air , and the facilities for mountain expeditions to the healthy and vigorous . The walks are varied and interesting ; there is a constant round of amusements of every kind offered to the visitors , pour les distraire . I may mention that the Engadine is in the canton of the Grisons , adjoining Italy .

Spent an agreeable time at St . Moritz , then left by diligence , passing through Silva Plana , Titfen Castle , and Chur Walden , to Chur , or Coire as the French call it . This is a thriving city , the see of a Catholic bishop . There are also some handsome churches of the Reformed Protestants . In this quaint old city there are many interesting traces of the Middle Ages . Near the venerable cathedral is a pretty little cemetery

tended with loving care—a peifect garden of flowers in full bloom . This affectionate remembrance of the loved ones who have passed away is a marked feature of the peasant people abroad . The journey by d'ligence to Andermatt occupied the whole of the following day ; the weather had been cold from the " absence of the sun , the air chilled by the vicinity of the lofty , snow-capped mountains which we

traversed ; descending into the valleys , where the sun shone , it became warm , Next morning I strolled through the pretty village , the air fresh and sweet , the sun brightly shining . Early as it was , about 6 a . m ., the place was full of life ; saw a band of school boys and girls in bright Swiss cos-! ume starting for a holiday , with their sticks , hats , and caps crowned with Alpine roses . Later on I observed a body of soldiers going through their

di fferent exercises , which seemed to me very exact ; returned to hotel ; after an excellent breakfast , took the diligence to cross the renowned Furka Pass to Brigue . Passing several small villages , and one or two ruined castles , by a continuous winding ascent we came to the famed Rhone Glacier . Here the carriage halted , that we might visit one of the finest ice caverns . From the early morning we had bein gradually ascending , till

we reached the summit of this grand pass , the air , though exhilarating , becoming colder and colder . This , the Furka Pass , is one of the highest in the Alps . By a rugged path we came to the edge of the glacier ; it led to a cavern formed out ot the solid ice . With others I entered it , but only for a few momenls . I was glad to leave it , it was so intensely cold . The colours

of the ice varitd from a deep blue to a light green . We joined our conveyance , and rapidly descending the winding road , came to a smaller glacierthe Rosach . The way had only been cleared five or six days previously , having been rendered impassible by masses of fallen snow . From our high elevation we could clearly distinguish our destination , which by zig-zigs we rapidly approached . In turning the winding curves the four horses

Tour Through The Tyrol (Austria), The Engadine, And Zermatt (Switzerland).

whisked round so suddenly that at times we had our hearts in our mouths that we should topple over and be hurled down the frightful precipices seemed inevitable , but the driver and the horses were quite unconcerned , it was an every day business to them , and , really , there was no danger ; safety lay in the rapid speed maintained—an accident is of the rarest occurrence . Arrived at our destination , we had to change for another diligence ; the

luggage had to be transferred . It is very advisable that each person should personally see to his own things , otherwise they may be mislaid or lost . I found it so in my case , I would not trust the porter ' s assurance , and it was well I did not , for I found my bag had been put on the wrong coach . Left Gleitch , and set out for Brigue , through comparatively tame scenery contrasted with that of the morning ; just before starting saw two tame marmots in a cage—pretty , harmless creatures . Passing through fertile

villages , the rushing river Rhone at our side , we had a view of the Simplon Mountain and the mouth of the Simplon railway tunnel , so well known to many travellers . Next day left hotel , went by rail to Visp , thence to Zermatt , stayed at Mont Cervin Holel . The day was unpleasant , the air charged with misty vapour , which totally obscured the Alpine peaks ; the lofty Matterhorn , or Mont Cervin as the French call it , was invisible . Stayed rest of day in hotel ; going out was impossible .

The clear bright dawn of the next day gave promise of fine weather , which was fully realised . Left hotel at 6 a . m ., passed through the primitive village of Zermatt , the shops of which were open , prepared for the day ' s business , observed the little church , with its churchyard , where a tombstone is erected to the memory of Croz , the Swiss guide , who perished in the well-known disaster which happened to Lord Francis Douglas and

Mr . Hadow in their descent from a successful attempt to reach the summit of the Matterhorn . Mr . Whymper , the well-known Alpine climber , has given a graphic account of the fatal expedition in his charming book ; he was one of the party , but fortunately escaped . Proceeding on our way , we soon beheld the Matterhorn in all its massive grandeur , its snow-clad summit towering in majesty far above the surrounding peaks against the bright

blue sky , undimmed by the least fleck of cloud—it was , indeed , a most magnificent sight . Returned to hotel , did full justice to my breakfast , made an excursion afterwards in the mountains , visiting the Gorges leading to the Riffel Berg , a stiff climb brought me in full view of the Matterhorn , and the toil was well repaid . Later in the day I reached the Gorner Gratt glacier—fine , but not equal to the Rhone glacier I had previously seen . From the elevated position I had reached an easy zig-zag descent , at times

encountering snow on the path , led down to the beautiful Zermatt valley . It was an enjoyable day , spent amid the grandest Swiss scenery . Next day ( Sunday ) was wet again—rain all day . Attended morning service at the plain unpretentious English church opposite the hotel . During the day saw , in the gardens of the hotel , two tame chamois ; these are rarely now seen on the mountains , they have been hunted down by socalled sportsmen , almost to extinction . There was also a fine barn-door owl , with eyes blinking in the daylight .

The following morn was fine . Left Zermatt with regret ; should like to have made a longer stay . Took train back to Visp , through charming village scenery where the vine is extensively grown , lofty mountains crowned with snow on either side , in full view of the Rhone . Found that I had made a mistake relative to the train . I could not arrive at my proposed destination ( Lausanne ) till 11 . 30 ( night ) . I , therefore , resolved to stop at Sion , a very ancient city capital of the

canton of Valais , and I was glad 1 did so . I found much to interest me . There are two castles—one completely ruined , the other partially s . o—they face each other on opposite hills . There is a curious old cathedral well worth a visit , a quaint Hotel de Ville . In a church I entered I heard the Office of the Rosary of the Virgin chanted by the brethren of some monastic Order , which was harmonious and impressive . This city is but little modernised , and is an interesting relic of the Middle Ages .

In the morning I took train for Lausanne . Arriving at Villeneuve , I left the railway , and completed the journey by steamboat for Ouchy , on the Lake of Geneva , a most pleasant change from railway travelling . At Ouchy , where I disembarked , a very long , steep hill brought me to Lausanne . I visited the cathedral ; from the adjoining terrace there is a fine view of the city and its environs , at least , so I was told , but 1 could see nothing , it was

so hazy . I saw the University : no academic dress is worn by the students ; but the faculties are distinguished by caps of different bright colours . On the morrow I went to Fribourg , where there is the celebrated suspension bridge , a marvel of engineering skill . It formed , I believe , the model for our Hungerford Suspension Bridge . It connects the city with a populous suburb , separated by a lofty ravine , through which flows the river

Gerance . The tower of the fine cathedral bears a striking resemblance to that of our St . Dunstan ' s , Flett-street , E . C . In the afternoon to Berne , the capital of the Canton , and the capital of Switzerland . There is a great deal to see here—the clock tower , the cathedral ajid terrace , with the distant view of the Bernese Alps , which I was able to behold , the day being fine and clear . All the streets have colonnades like those I have visited in Italy , especially Bologna . This city may well be

called Berne ( for it is indeed a Bear city ) even in its armorial bearings—Ursa-Major , in all possible combinations and forms , meets you at every step . There is even a bear pit , where four of these creatures are seen , maintained at the cost of the city . Visitors , of course , make a point of congregating there , feeding the shaggy animals with buns and carrots , of the latter they are extremely fond . It is strictly forbidden to give the b ^ ars any kind of animal food ; whether those who have charge of them give them any 1 do not know .

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