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Masonic Rencontres — The Two Isthmus.
MASONIC RENCONTRES — THE TWO ISTHMUS .
BY BRO . WALTER SPENCER , F . R . G . S ., & c .
EARLY in 18 ( 33 , I arrived in the comfortable P . M . C . steamer " Bolivia" at Panama , after a charming passage along tho South American shores , over tho harmless Avaters of the tropical Pacific . Inspired Avith youth and health and charmed with memories of travel , of the great
plateaus east of the Andes , of their mighty mountain passes , of the lovely stretches of forest and champaign betwixt them and the confluence of the Amazon , of the ruined cities of the Incas , and of deserted Jesuit missions in the far interior , I felt that no natural obstacle could
daunt me , that there Avas no distant spot to Avhich man could ' not penetrate , no desolation he could not explore . Landed at the old city , visions of Pizarro and Almagro rose before me , starting on their career toAvards unknown discoveries , Avhich Avere to culminate in the conquest of a
continent ; of arrivals and departures , of old caravels bearing successive Viceroys to the land of gold , of intrigue and tumult Avhich the old town had witnessed , as adventurers hurried to greet every UOAV satrap in hopes of supplanting tho favourites of the one recalled . I leaned
over the decaying battlements , by tho rusty cannon , Avhich still speak haughtily of bygone terrors Avhen the keys of the Pacific AVCIC their oAvn , and strained my eyes at the forest on the further shore , to discern tho ruins Avhich tell of the desolation inflicted by Morgan and his buccaneers .
The desire came strong upon me to explore those gorgeous forests , to rcA * cl in their emerald tints alone , and greedily to monopolise tho glories of nature in her most lovely array . I Avas homeward bound ; might have scant
opportunity for more explorations ; Avas not tied to a few days . Why should I not walk across the Isthmus ? There Avas an old mule path used before the opening of the raihvay . I would find it out .
On return to the hotol , " Aspinwall House , " ( where my folloAv passengers had been disgusted at Spanish-American cookery , —viands swimming in oil ) in the evening , on a cool balcony , Avhcre gentlemen smoked delicious new Havannahs and ladies lulled themselves in rocking- chairs
enlivened by occasional " chaff Avith street vendors of black pearls , tortoiscshell , vanilla beans and plantain fans , I broached my project , and Avas greeted Avith derisive yells by tho male , and a chorus of little screams by the female members of our party . Next morning , kind Mrs .
, the Avife of our good old Commodore , took mo to task seriously on tho subject . Her dissuasion , for my then frame of mind , Avas unfortunately calculated : she recounted anecdotes of horror , of the midnight plunderers , who from the Avoods made periodical raids on the outskirts of the city ,
of recent crimes committed in the villages , of the ferocity of tho negro squatters , and the danger from Avild beasts : to Avhich comforting anecdotes I promised to give full consideration . Armed Avith a letter of introduction I called on the Peruvian Consul , D . Antonio Rubio , asking for
information and advice as to the route . Ho stared aghast , and hurredly took up his hat , saying he Avould go at once to the railway authorities and get me a free pass by train . He thought I must be compelled through lack of funds . Any one Avho has had to deal Avith a
Spanish-American or Spaniard Avill knoAV that the idea of Avalking , Avhen there . is a possibility of riding , Avould never enter his head . When undeceived on this point , he Avas kind
enough to enliven me with statistics of the ravages made by fevers among the Avhite population ; Avith the moral that I should certainly break down in some negro hovel ' ere I had got halfway across .
This current of opposition someAvhat modified my plans . Unable to get information as to the route Avithout considerable unpleasantness , in order to carry out my view I decided to depart secretly . The raihvay track could not be missed : on that I determined to rely , using it as a
baseline from Avhich to make such excursions as fancy might dictate . Returning to tho hotel , I entrusted my luggage to an American felloAV-traveller bound by train to Aspin-Avall , with instruction to deposit it duly at the " HoAvard
House ; " retaining a broad brimmed Guayaquil hat , light strong trousers , a colonial jumper * a SAvord-stick and revolver-belt , Avhich tho jumper Avould conceal . These , a bottle of sulph . quin ., and some dollars in my pocket , * Jumper , a thin blno sergo sleeved smock , reaching to the hips .
Masonic Rencontres — The Two Isthmus.
Avith a brandy-flask at my side , Avould sei * ve my purpose . A change of linen Avould be cumbersome , and might tem pt cupidity ; the distance from ocean to ocean Avas but
fortyeight miles , and might even be accomplished in a night . It seemed Aviser to travel by night only ; the fearful heat of the day , even in the glades of the forest , would be harder to bear than even tho densest night malaria .
Without leave-taking of any one , therefore , I set out at seven that evening in bright moonlight , for regions unknown ; Avithout a thought except of an adventurous
ramble Avith a happy issue , and in all the buoyancy of youthful spirits . My pipe , good store of tobacco , and matches not forgotten , I " lighted up , " and struck out of a street , across fields that Avould land me on to the "Line "
Avell out of the toAvn . The hum of the population and the tinkling of guitars died dreamily aAvay , as I bounded on to the sleepers and swung gaily along the track . For some distance on the line I passed clusters of hovels , and then entered a narroAV way between the dark matted
giants of the tropical bush . The moon dissappeared at ten o ' clock , and the Avhite mist rising round me , clinging amid the dense vegetation , showed that I had really entered the dreaded miasma of foetid swamps . I stopped to fortify myself , Avith quinine from the point of a penknife ,
Avashed down Avith Cognac . Vegetable growths in rank rottenness , densely packed , were perspiring a thick steam , and I seemed to scent fever as I passed along . Strange horried insects and reptiles eraAvled , or scampered off the path . At about 11 p . m . I caught the sound of footsteps
, at a distance , following mine ; full of the stories of negro treachery and Avhat not , I took out my revolver and , as the stranger approached , cried out , in Spanish , " Quien vivo . " The reply Avas of surprise , in English : and ' someAvhat reassured , I queried , "Who the D 1 are
you ? " "United States sloop 'Thecla , '" replied the invisible ; " what ' s up ? " "Whither bound ? " I asked . " On tho tramp across . " " Come on , " I called , cautiously , prepared for a ruse . The starlight Avas sparkling and beautiful , the place an open glade , and the stranger
appeared m the garb of a seaman , having a bundle shino over his shoulder from a stick . A deserter apparently ! On questioning him , I found it Avas so . His intention was to stow himself aAvay in a steamer on arrival at Aspinwall and to Avork his Avay to NeAv York as a fireman . We joined tho
company ; companionship proved not uncongenial , but after midnight his pace slackened , and seeing him stoop to drink from a rill Avhich trickled out of the bush , I pnlled him back , and , Avith a caution against drinking essence of fever , fortified him from the flask and with a pinch of
quinine . At about 1 a . m . Ave heard a regular tramp , as of soldiery approaching from the opposite quarter , and both apprehensive , Ave drew into the bush . Presentl y the oncoming band burst into a chorus , soon resolvable into " Was ist des Beutsahen Vaterland . " A party of Germans
on their Avay across , bound , they said ( for I Avas rejoiced to speak again the dear old German tongue ) , for San Francisco . Artisans of various trades , travelling cheaply as Germans knoAV hoAV , on their way to strengthen Avith their sense and sinew , the glorious State of California
Shortly after this little episode , Avhen close to a clearing amid Avhich Ave could distinguish a dark group of huts , my companion satdoAvn on a stump , and declared he must have a rest . Wc had passed various stations in the darkness
along the line , but there Avas one larger which I noAV Avas anxious to reach , determining not to travel further after sunrise , and nothing doubting but that my dollars Avould secure me shelter and a good reception .
Not Avishing to part company , I said , " Well , come Avith me ; AVO' 11 get some refreshment ; " and , stumbling along over the stumps to the first hut , rapped at the door shouting tAvice , " Quieren ustedes dinero "— " Do you want money ? " I could hear a startled occupant go through
the various grunts and rustlings Avhich betoken aAvakening consciousness , bursting at last into a chuckle as the meaning of the unexpected query dawned upon him . "Because , " I added , "for a cup of coffee you shall have a dollar . " This brought to the door an aged ni gger on
the broad grin , Avho admitted us , and proceeded to strike a light by the friction of two sticks , until cut short by the ignition of a match . Around , upon a flooring of plantain leaves , lay his interesting family , Avho sat up , rubbino- their
eyes and staring at the intruders . In a Avonderfull y short y time the fire Avas lighted—on the same floor no chimney—and an earthen pot Avas boiling upon it . In less than half an hour Ave were imbibing a hot
Note: This text has been automatically extracted via Optical Character Recognition (OCR) software.
Masonic Rencontres — The Two Isthmus.
MASONIC RENCONTRES — THE TWO ISTHMUS .
BY BRO . WALTER SPENCER , F . R . G . S ., & c .
EARLY in 18 ( 33 , I arrived in the comfortable P . M . C . steamer " Bolivia" at Panama , after a charming passage along tho South American shores , over tho harmless Avaters of the tropical Pacific . Inspired Avith youth and health and charmed with memories of travel , of the great
plateaus east of the Andes , of their mighty mountain passes , of the lovely stretches of forest and champaign betwixt them and the confluence of the Amazon , of the ruined cities of the Incas , and of deserted Jesuit missions in the far interior , I felt that no natural obstacle could
daunt me , that there Avas no distant spot to Avhich man could ' not penetrate , no desolation he could not explore . Landed at the old city , visions of Pizarro and Almagro rose before me , starting on their career toAvards unknown discoveries , Avhich Avere to culminate in the conquest of a
continent ; of arrivals and departures , of old caravels bearing successive Viceroys to the land of gold , of intrigue and tumult Avhich the old town had witnessed , as adventurers hurried to greet every UOAV satrap in hopes of supplanting tho favourites of the one recalled . I leaned
over the decaying battlements , by tho rusty cannon , Avhich still speak haughtily of bygone terrors Avhen the keys of the Pacific AVCIC their oAvn , and strained my eyes at the forest on the further shore , to discern tho ruins Avhich tell of the desolation inflicted by Morgan and his buccaneers .
The desire came strong upon me to explore those gorgeous forests , to rcA * cl in their emerald tints alone , and greedily to monopolise tho glories of nature in her most lovely array . I Avas homeward bound ; might have scant
opportunity for more explorations ; Avas not tied to a few days . Why should I not walk across the Isthmus ? There Avas an old mule path used before the opening of the raihvay . I would find it out .
On return to the hotol , " Aspinwall House , " ( where my folloAv passengers had been disgusted at Spanish-American cookery , —viands swimming in oil ) in the evening , on a cool balcony , Avhcre gentlemen smoked delicious new Havannahs and ladies lulled themselves in rocking- chairs
enlivened by occasional " chaff Avith street vendors of black pearls , tortoiscshell , vanilla beans and plantain fans , I broached my project , and Avas greeted Avith derisive yells by tho male , and a chorus of little screams by the female members of our party . Next morning , kind Mrs .
, the Avife of our good old Commodore , took mo to task seriously on tho subject . Her dissuasion , for my then frame of mind , Avas unfortunately calculated : she recounted anecdotes of horror , of the midnight plunderers , who from the Avoods made periodical raids on the outskirts of the city ,
of recent crimes committed in the villages , of the ferocity of tho negro squatters , and the danger from Avild beasts : to Avhich comforting anecdotes I promised to give full consideration . Armed Avith a letter of introduction I called on the Peruvian Consul , D . Antonio Rubio , asking for
information and advice as to the route . Ho stared aghast , and hurredly took up his hat , saying he Avould go at once to the railway authorities and get me a free pass by train . He thought I must be compelled through lack of funds . Any one Avho has had to deal Avith a
Spanish-American or Spaniard Avill knoAV that the idea of Avalking , Avhen there . is a possibility of riding , Avould never enter his head . When undeceived on this point , he Avas kind
enough to enliven me with statistics of the ravages made by fevers among the Avhite population ; Avith the moral that I should certainly break down in some negro hovel ' ere I had got halfway across .
This current of opposition someAvhat modified my plans . Unable to get information as to the route Avithout considerable unpleasantness , in order to carry out my view I decided to depart secretly . The raihvay track could not be missed : on that I determined to rely , using it as a
baseline from Avhich to make such excursions as fancy might dictate . Returning to tho hotel , I entrusted my luggage to an American felloAV-traveller bound by train to Aspin-Avall , with instruction to deposit it duly at the " HoAvard
House ; " retaining a broad brimmed Guayaquil hat , light strong trousers , a colonial jumper * a SAvord-stick and revolver-belt , Avhich tho jumper Avould conceal . These , a bottle of sulph . quin ., and some dollars in my pocket , * Jumper , a thin blno sergo sleeved smock , reaching to the hips .
Masonic Rencontres — The Two Isthmus.
Avith a brandy-flask at my side , Avould sei * ve my purpose . A change of linen Avould be cumbersome , and might tem pt cupidity ; the distance from ocean to ocean Avas but
fortyeight miles , and might even be accomplished in a night . It seemed Aviser to travel by night only ; the fearful heat of the day , even in the glades of the forest , would be harder to bear than even tho densest night malaria .
Without leave-taking of any one , therefore , I set out at seven that evening in bright moonlight , for regions unknown ; Avithout a thought except of an adventurous
ramble Avith a happy issue , and in all the buoyancy of youthful spirits . My pipe , good store of tobacco , and matches not forgotten , I " lighted up , " and struck out of a street , across fields that Avould land me on to the "Line "
Avell out of the toAvn . The hum of the population and the tinkling of guitars died dreamily aAvay , as I bounded on to the sleepers and swung gaily along the track . For some distance on the line I passed clusters of hovels , and then entered a narroAV way between the dark matted
giants of the tropical bush . The moon dissappeared at ten o ' clock , and the Avhite mist rising round me , clinging amid the dense vegetation , showed that I had really entered the dreaded miasma of foetid swamps . I stopped to fortify myself , Avith quinine from the point of a penknife ,
Avashed down Avith Cognac . Vegetable growths in rank rottenness , densely packed , were perspiring a thick steam , and I seemed to scent fever as I passed along . Strange horried insects and reptiles eraAvled , or scampered off the path . At about 11 p . m . I caught the sound of footsteps
, at a distance , following mine ; full of the stories of negro treachery and Avhat not , I took out my revolver and , as the stranger approached , cried out , in Spanish , " Quien vivo . " The reply Avas of surprise , in English : and ' someAvhat reassured , I queried , "Who the D 1 are
you ? " "United States sloop 'Thecla , '" replied the invisible ; " what ' s up ? " "Whither bound ? " I asked . " On tho tramp across . " " Come on , " I called , cautiously , prepared for a ruse . The starlight Avas sparkling and beautiful , the place an open glade , and the stranger
appeared m the garb of a seaman , having a bundle shino over his shoulder from a stick . A deserter apparently ! On questioning him , I found it Avas so . His intention was to stow himself aAvay in a steamer on arrival at Aspinwall and to Avork his Avay to NeAv York as a fireman . We joined tho
company ; companionship proved not uncongenial , but after midnight his pace slackened , and seeing him stoop to drink from a rill Avhich trickled out of the bush , I pnlled him back , and , Avith a caution against drinking essence of fever , fortified him from the flask and with a pinch of
quinine . At about 1 a . m . Ave heard a regular tramp , as of soldiery approaching from the opposite quarter , and both apprehensive , Ave drew into the bush . Presentl y the oncoming band burst into a chorus , soon resolvable into " Was ist des Beutsahen Vaterland . " A party of Germans
on their Avay across , bound , they said ( for I Avas rejoiced to speak again the dear old German tongue ) , for San Francisco . Artisans of various trades , travelling cheaply as Germans knoAV hoAV , on their way to strengthen Avith their sense and sinew , the glorious State of California
Shortly after this little episode , Avhen close to a clearing amid Avhich Ave could distinguish a dark group of huts , my companion satdoAvn on a stump , and declared he must have a rest . Wc had passed various stations in the darkness
along the line , but there Avas one larger which I noAV Avas anxious to reach , determining not to travel further after sunrise , and nothing doubting but that my dollars Avould secure me shelter and a good reception .
Not Avishing to part company , I said , " Well , come Avith me ; AVO' 11 get some refreshment ; " and , stumbling along over the stumps to the first hut , rapped at the door shouting tAvice , " Quieren ustedes dinero "— " Do you want money ? " I could hear a startled occupant go through
the various grunts and rustlings Avhich betoken aAvakening consciousness , bursting at last into a chuckle as the meaning of the unexpected query dawned upon him . "Because , " I added , "for a cup of coffee you shall have a dollar . " This brought to the door an aged ni gger on
the broad grin , Avho admitted us , and proceeded to strike a light by the friction of two sticks , until cut short by the ignition of a match . Around , upon a flooring of plantain leaves , lay his interesting family , Avho sat up , rubbino- their
eyes and staring at the intruders . In a Avonderfull y short y time the fire Avas lighted—on the same floor no chimney—and an earthen pot Avas boiling upon it . In less than half an hour Ave were imbibing a hot