Science, Art, And The Drama.

Science , Art , and the Drama .

THE KID GLOVE AND KID SKIN INDUSTRY IN FRANCE .

The kid glove industry of Grenoble is of ancient and doubtful origin . The town itself is situated in the centre of the finest kid skin region in France and is surrounded by mountains , where the cheap labour of the peasant women can be economically employed in hand sewing . Several centuries ago . Grenoble won a well-deserved reputation for the quality of its gloves . The actual quantity of gloves manufactured was small in

comparison with the output of to-day , but it appears that in 1691 , the glove corporation of Grenoble was organised and founded , and that ever since that time , records have been kept which testify to its importance . Since ths invention of the sewing machine , this industry has been gradually decentralised , and kid gloves are now made in almost every country of the civilised world . The American Consul at Grenoble savs that commercial competi

tion , notably in Belgium , Germany , England , Italy , and Austria , following closely upon the heels of this invention , has been , perhaps , the chief reason why Grenoble has lost its pre-eminence in this branch of manufacture . It may justly be said , however , that Grenoble always has been , and is still , the centre of the kid glove industry , especially for the finer qualities of gloves . This industry may be conveniently divided into four main branches or

departments , viz . ( 1 ) The raw skin business ; ( 2 ) the dressing or alum tanning process ; ( 3 ) the dyeing or staining process ; ( 4 ) the actual glove making , i . e ., the stretching and thinning down of the skin to its proper size and thickness , the cutting out into the shape and size required , the sewing together of the different parts and the embroidering . The quality of the skin is best judged after the dyeing and tanning process is complete , and may be

said to be based on the strength , softness , and pliability of the leather , and on the size of the skin , the fineness of the grain , and its freedom from defects , which are mainly caused by scars or diseases . These qualities of the raw skin depend on the care given tothe young kid , on its breed , on the nature and the abundance of its food , and on climatic influences . The finest kid skins are undoubtedly to be found in France , but this does not mean that French

skins are uniform in quality . For instance , in the departments of Savoy and Upper Savoy , the skins , as a rule , are large and heavy , with a fine grain for the size ; they are soft and elastic , and , at the same time , strong , and well suited for men ' s gloves . The rich pasturage of this country is an important element in the superior quality of these skins as a class . In the region of the Vosges , in the north-eastern part of France , kid skins are

much smaller and less elastic , owing to the fact that the animals are not so well cared for . Here the poverty of the soil is one of the reasons for the inferiority of the skins . To the west of the Vosges , on the line between Paris and Lyons , the kid skins are of a better quality . Still further west , towards the centre of France , in Touraine especially , where the pasturage is good and the animals well cared for , the grain of the skin is fine , the skin

itself is thin and strong , and comparatively free from scars and disease . Further south , towards the Spanish frontier , the quality of the skin is inferior as a rule , the poorer pasturage and hotter climate having a marked effect upon it . The peasants in this part of France are careless in their methods of work . They neglect the kids while alive , and after they have been butchered , take the skins off carelessly , and prepare them for market

in a slovenly manner . At least one-third of these skins are so dry that they are fit to be used only as linings for boots and shoes . Kid skins have the same general characteristics through the south-west of France—that is , from the Rhone to the Spanish border and the Bay of Biscay . Kid skins generally pass through several hands before reaching the glove maker or his agent . ( To be continued ) .

Mans Holbein.

MANS HOLBEIN .

Few excellent artists have had more justice done to their merit than Holbein . His country has paid the highest honours to his memory and to his labours . His life has been frequently written ; every circumstance that could be recovered in relation to him has been sedulously preserved ; and , as always happens to a real genius , he has been complimented with a thousand wretched performances that were unworthy

of him . The year of his birth , the place of his birth , have been contested ; yet it is certain that the former happened in 149 S , and the latter most probably was Basle . Holbein's inclination to drawing appeared very early , and could not fail to be encouraged in a family so addicted to art . His father himself instructed him , and he learned besides , graving , casting , modelling , and architecture ; and in the two latter branches he was excellent . Yet , with

both talents and taste , he , for some time , remained in indigence , dissipating with women what he acquired by the former , and drowning in wine the delicacy of the latter . At that time Erasmus was retired to Basle , a man whose luck of fame was derived from all the circumstances which he himself reckoned unfortunate . He lived when learning was just emerging out of barbarism , and shone by lamenting elegantly the defects of his

contemporaries . His being one of the first to attack superstitions , which he had not courage to relinquish , gave him merit in the eyes of the Protestants , while his time-serving had an air oi moderation , and his very poverty , that threw him into servile adulation , expressed itself in terms that were beautiful enough to be transmitted to posterity . His cupboard of plate , all presented to him by the greatest men of the age , was at once a monument of his

flattery and genius . With a mind polished no wonder he distinguished the talents of young Holbein . He was warmly recommended to employment by Erasmus and Amerbach , a painter of that city . He painted the picture of the latter in 1519 , who , showing him the Moria Encomium of the former , Holbein drew on the margin many ol the characters described in the book . Erasmus was so pleased with these that lie kept the book 10 days—the

subsequent incidents were trilling indeed , and not much to the honour of the politeness of either . Holbein , rudely enough , wrote under the figure of an old student the name of Erasmus . The author , with very little spirit of repartee , wro ' . e under a fellow drinking the name of Holbein , These are anecdotes not worth repeating for their importance , but very

descriptive of the esteem in which two men were held , of whom such anecdotes could be thought worth preserving . Supported by thc protection of these friends , Holbein grew into great reputation . The Karl of Arundel , returning from Italy through Basle , saw his works , was charmed with them , and advised him to go to England . At first Holbein neglected this advice ;

Mans Holbein.

but in 1526 , his family and the froward temper of his wife increasing , and his business declining , he determined upon that journey . At first he said he should quit Basle but for a time , and only to raise the value of his works , which were growing too numerous there ; yet before he went he intimated that he should leave a specimen of the power of his abilities . He had still

at his house a portrait that he had just finished for one of his patrons—on the forehead he painted a fly , and sent the picture to the person for whom it was designed . The gentleman , struck with the beauty of the piece , went eagerly to brush off the fly , and found the deceit . The story soon spread , and orders were immediately given , to prevent the city being deprived of so wonderful an artist ; but Holbein had withdrawn privately . ( To be continued ) .

THE DUKE OF YORK'S THEATRE . The comedy , entitled " Miss Hobbs , " which is at present played at the above theatre , is by a well-known writer , Jerome K . Jerome . There is not much plot in this piece , which is spread over four acts , and might easily have been told in two . There is , however , an amount of smart writing , which fully compensates for lack of incident . There is a certain Percival Kingsearl , whose newly-married life appears to bs clouded over by the influence which Miss Henrietta Hobbs is able to exercise on the mind of his

simple young wife . This Miss Hobbs is a type of the New Woman , whose doctrines declare that the female sex is held in unworthy bondage by the tyrant man , and would advocate that her sisters should shake off the yoke imposed upon them , and assert their independence . The foolishness of the teacher is seen reflected in a crude manner in the actions of the pupil and the absurd endeavours of the unthinking wife to put into practice the precepts

she has been taught , only tend to render ( her husband , a worthy young fellow , and herself very unhappy . However , a Nemesis awaits Miss Hobbs in the person of Woolf Kingsearl , and , in due time , ' she gradually perceives how unreasonable is the course she has hitherto pursued . How this comes about and the amusing episode of the wager , we leave for visitors to discover . Miss Evelyn Millard takes the part of Miss Hobbs , and , by her great artistic talent , does full justice to a rather thankless character . Mrs .

Kingsearl , the young wife , is in the hands of Aliss Agnes . Miller . Miss Susan Abbey , the maiden aunt , who is an important agent in uniting again the husband and wife , is well depicted by Miss Susie Vaughan . Among the male characters we may mention Percival Kingsearl and George Jessop ; these are efficiently represented by Messrs . Allan Aynesworth and Cosmo Stuart . To Mr . Herbert Waring , is entrusted Woolf Kingsearl , who does not fail to bring into due prominence the caustic remarks of the character . Taken as a whole , " Miss Hobbs" will well repay a visit .

GENERAL NOTES . At a meeting of the Zoological Society at Hanover-square , lately , Mr . C . W . Andrews , in the course of his remarks on Christmas Island , which he visited some iS months ago , mad ^ e reference to the interesting robber crab . . He said that these ^ crabs were exceedingly numerous on the island , and acted as scavengers , in picking up and devouring any dead animals , or carrion , that came in their paths . He also showed some lantern slides of

the creatures climbing trees in order to get at the fruit , which forms one of their favourite foods . They are good climbers , and ascend and descend perfectly perpendicular trunks , with , apparently , the greatest facility . When making a raid on a fruit tree , all the crabs do not climb up it , but some of them remain on the ground , under the tree , and pick up the fruit that is knocked down by their companions in the branches .

The Hog-deer is an animal that thrives well in captivity , and is generally represented by one or more specimens in menageries . It is of very small size , not measuring more than 26 or 27 inches at the shoulders , and being about 40 inches in length from nose to root of tail . The horns measure , when full grown , about 15 inches , and have two tines upon each of them , the brow tine being comparatively long , while the upper one , towards the

tip of the horn , is quite short . The winter coat of this deer is of a general chestnut colour above , with lips , eye spot , inner sides of limbs , and under surface white . In summer the old males become a dark greyish colour , but the younger animals and females assume a much lighter brown colour , and are often spotted over the back and flanks with white . The fawns when first born are always spotted . From the habit of running with its head

bent forward and with its nose almost touching the ground , somewhat after the manner of a pig , the hog-deer has derived its popular name . India is its home , where it frequents the grassy patches in open country and rarely takes to forest-grown lands . Sportsmen hunt it on elephants , and , as a rule , use guns to bring it down . Dogs , however , are sometimes employed

in its capture , and it falls an easy victim , on account of its sitting close in its hiding place until they are nearly upoi it , and also on account of its not being very Meet of foot . It does not congregate in herds , as do several other kinds of deer , but is met with singly or in pairs , being very abundant in several parts of India , particularly towards the north .

The charming Tableaux Vtvants , which were performed so recently at Her Majesty's Theatre , will probably be repeated at the Crystal Palace , and the Masque will also be given at some matinees . At present only an edition de luxe is obtainable of the latter , as it was expected to be only a piece d ' occasion . But , with flight alterations , Mr . Hamish McCann's music and Mr . Parker's lyrics could be converted into a species of patriotic cantata , so that a cheaper edition will doubtless be soon published . The music is simple in form , and is just the sort of thing for provincial choral societies .

Veteran opera-goers may recollect that Madame Pauline Lucca , thc once celeDrated prima donna , married early in her career Baron von Rhaden . The union proved unhappy and was dissolved , the fair artist later espousing Herr von Wallhofen , who died a short time back . It is now reported that Madame Lucca is about to emulate Madame Patti , and , for a third time , enter the bonds of matrimony . Her bridegroom elect is said to be a singing master named Forsten .

A contest for a cantata by a foreigner , no Frenchmen being allowed to compete , is likely to be opened in connection with the Paris Exhibition . It is said that M . Leon de Mayrand has prepared a libretto for those who desire to use it , and that several German and American composers will enter their names when full particulars are published .