From Oxford To London By Water*

As Ave approach the river , Avith its line of gady-coloured barges , the contrast between Vacation and Term time is still more striking . Instead of the ceaseless bustle of young and active life , the crowd of boats of all sizes ancl shapes , the measured sAA'ing of the eig ht-oar , and the sonorous cries of the " coach " upon the towing-path , all is silent and deserted ; ancl the most inexperienced oarsman , or most erratic coxsAvain , can arrive safely at Iffley without running into anything except the bank . How different from the scenes at the college boat-races ,

Avhen" Stalwart footsteps shake the shores , Rolls the pulse o £ stalwart oars ;" and the towing-path is all a hurly-burly of maddening excitement ! As Ave paddle quietly CIOAVU in our comfortable four-oared " tub , " the recollection of such moments makes us inclined to quicken the stroke , and dash the oar blade more sharply throuo-h the Avater ; but prudence whispers that we have tAventy miles to . go , and that , being

somewhat out of condition , it is better to economise our strength . And here let us put in a Avord as to the kind of boat for our purpose . There is no greater mistake than to have too light a boat , ancl anything with outriggers shoidd be absolutely avoided . We are to spend from six to eight hours of each clay in our boat , often shifting places to take our turns at steering , and landing to bathe , or sketch , or lunch ; ancl it is essential to comfort to have a stead yroomy boatwhieh will carry our scantluggao-e

, , y , and show no tendency whatever to upset . For a party of five or six , the sort of boat known at Oxford as an " inrigged tub four " is the lightest consistent Avith comfort , ancl a somewhat heavier " company boat" will be f ound to pidl down stream almost as easil y , and will be still more comfortable . For three or four persons a " tub-pair " is most suitable , i Some Avill take a sail , but with a four-oared boat this is of little use , ancl onl y wastes time . A pah' of sculls , in case one member of the party has to take the boat

through a lock Avhile the others bathe , a boat-hook , a punt-cushion or tAvo for rechninoon during intervals of rest , and some waterproof canoe aprons to cover our luggage , are all the accessories required . We must not , hoAvever , forget one important vade mecum of the Thames tourist , the admirable map and guide prepared by an Oxford photographer , Mr . Taunt , which supplies in a handy form all the information required for the journey ! Eor the first clay ' pullWallingfordtwentytwo miles from Oxfordmakes

s , , - , a good stage ; or , if that be too long , the inn at Sh ' iUingford Bridge , three miles short of Wallingford , is both picturesque and comfortable . Last year this inn , so the landlord informed us , accommodated during the boating season over 1 , 000 guests ; ancl on the night of our stay at least one large party had to be turned away . It is , in fact , quite necessary to secure rooms beforehand at any of these Thames-side hotels . With the

exception of the reach beloAv Nuneham Woods , so familiar to Oxford picnic-parties and boating-men , the scenery of Avhich , in our opinion , is second only in beauty to that at Cliveden , there is nothing of striking interest in this part of the river . Abingdon is a curious old sleepy toAvn , Avith many quaint "bits" for the sketcher or the antiquarian ; and Wallingford is an old , uninteresting market-town . One or two churches are hkel y to catch the eye—notably Iffley Church , one of the finest specimens of Norman work iu land

Eng , ancl Clifton Hampden , one of the earliest Avorks of the late Sir falbert Scott , picturesquel y placed on a high Avooded bank over a bend of the stream . From Shillingford or Wallingford ( Avhichever of these be the first ni ght ' s haltingffi' clay ' J oume 7 ° f about twenty-five indes , by some of the most picturesque scenery ot the river , brings us to Wargrave or Henley . Cleeve ¦ Lock , AA'ith the noble reach of water above , ancl the wooded eminence of Streatley Hill behind ; Harts Wood , the hi < di bank of trees Avhose

splendid autumn colouring attracts the traveller by the Great vpfl ? ' ? ¦ Ballway tefcween Pangbourne ancl Goring ; Basddon Park , Avith its fine trees wVi , ™ th , e gIaSS 7 stream > Pangbourne , the picturesque village dear to anglers , of 'inch a glimpse , all too short , is caught from the raihvay as the express dashes through ^ aplediuham . one of the fairest of fair spots- on the banks of Thames ; prosperous eading , Avith its ever-groAAung outskirts of new red-brick houses , ancl the tall chimneys 1 the great biscuit factory which makes its name as well knoAvn as that of Burton-on-